Milawa and Beechworth

Posted on January 17, 2010 at 3:36pm | 0 comments

Today we visited Milawa and Beechworth.

I wrote about the Milawa Cheese Factory and Milawa Mustards in February 2005.

Not much has changed. They are still wonderful places to visit.

This time we also went to Walkabout Apiaries, where they offer honey tasting and sales.

Unfortunately we followed a bus load of elderly tourists into the cheese factory and mustard store, so it was nice to find ourselves alone at the honey farm.

The owner gave us a description and tasting of about six different honey varieties. (more…)

Lake Buffalo, Myrtleford

Posted on January 12, 2010 at 3:33pm | 2 comments

Lake Buffalo
We enjoyed a visit to Lake Buffalo today, about 22km from where we are staying, to cool down. (more…)

Political deal makers

Posted on October 23, 2009 at 4:10pm | 0 comments

Describing a political party, if I said there were fights on the floor of the party conference, a strident radical wing, socialist tendencies and legislation to introduce a public gas utility you’d probably assume I was talking about the Australian Labor Party.

In fact I would be describing the Victorian Country Party, which was the dominant parliamentary power in that state for three decades last century.

I’ve been reading “The Victorian Premiers: 1856-2006″ (Federation Press 2006) edited by Paul Strangio and Brian Costar.

I bought the book because I was interested to learn more about the dynamics that existed between the Labor and Country parties during that period. (more…)

Beyond The Pale

Posted on June 26, 2009 at 5:41pm | 1 comment

Thanks to regular commenter Ebony, I have just finished reading Beyond The Pale by John Hooker (1998 Allen & Unwin).

It’s a tough uncompromising look at early colonial life in South West Victoria, just across the border from Mount Gambier.

At the beginning I thought it was set near Wannon Falls at the foot of the Grampians. Later, I realised the setting was Port Fairy, where Hooker lived for many years.

Beyond The Pale describes how an Anglo Irish aristocrat struggles against isolation and hardships in the 1840s to establish a successful farming estate on the edge of civilisation.

For the main character, John Harringon, Australia is an alien land which he dislikes, but seeks to tame.

As the younger son of a financially failed father he was sent to the colonies to make his own way.

He employs Daniel O’Leary, who becomes the farm manager and a lifelong ally, albeit they retain a master-servant relationship.

In Port Victoria (Port Fairy) Harrington has to deal with the merchant James Rutford who owns most of the town and its supplies.

Always prudent, cautious and responsible, Harrington succeeds financially where most others crash. He rarely drinks and remains aloof.

As his father’s fortunes fail, Harrington’s brother Richard, their sister Elizabeth and her husband Clive Davies join him in the new world.

They are all arrogant, flawed individuals who don’t want to be where they end up and struggle to adapt.

Richard Harrington and Davies are drunkards; Elizabeth is frustrated with her life and pretentious; she cavorts with a caddish neighbour Edmund Butler, acquires the pox and goes mad.

Beyond the Pale is a story of displacement, racism and brutality. The Irish are oppressed and they, in turn, oppress the Aborigines.

Unlike some authors, Hooker doesn’t portray the Aborigines as noble savages. They too are shown as having human frailties.

Harrington’s method of adapting to his alien world is to build an English estate, complete with mansion, gardens, a lake and church.

He succeeds, but it’s a constant battle to maintain the property against the climate, pilfering natives, envious rivals, corrupt officials and hostile staff.

A key aspect of the book I felt two thirds through was that no character was decent. Every one of them had a fundamental flaw, some kind of negative trait or vice.

Harrington was snobbish, exploitative and sexually ambiguous.

The ending elevated O’Leary to a more noble status, but earlier it seemed his lack of ambition would be his undoing. Overall he was loyal, persistent and less prone to excesses.

The sense of dislocation and human weakness are constant themes throughout the novel.

Reading this interview with Hooker, who died in 2008, dislocation was one of his favorite themes.

“It’s an uncompromising look at the treachery and racism that underlie Australia’s formation, notes Hooker. He remembers walking “many years ago in the autumnal hills outside Canberra with Manning Clarke who suddenly said: ‘We have no business being here’. He meant we, as Europeans, are in the wrong place. It was an undercurrent in his histories, and it’s echoed in Henry Reynolds’ work, that our presence here is morally defective. And I firmly believe that, that until we face up to our colonial past, we are never going to get it right.”

I think that’s a rather grim view, but I like the way Hooker wrote.

It was also fascinating to read early 19th century descriptions of an area close to my current home.

I’m visiting Port Fairy and Warrnambool tomorrow. I’ll look at both places with a fresh perspective.

Mumbannar

Posted on February 15, 2009 at 2:58pm | 2 comments

Mumbannar Primary School

Mumbannar is a small farming district near Dartmoor in far Western Victoria, about 30km from Mount Gambier.

It was a thriving community once with a school and showgrounds. I’m guessing it might have had a hotel and store at one stage, and possibly a football team.

Today Mumbannar is a scattering of farm houses, a community hall and overgrown tennis courts.

It’s a victim of the general rural decline, farms getting bigger and bluegums (timber) overtaking farm land.

I like the landscape. It’s a beautiful area.

Mumbannar School entrance

Port Fairy

Posted on February 15, 2009 at 2:48pm | 0 comments

Caledonian Hotel, Port Fairy

We stopped briefly in Port Fairy on the way back from Warrnambool. It’s a bustling place on Sunday and really filled up around 11am as people flocked to the coffee shops and cafes.

Port Fairy has maintained much of its 19th century character. Like Beechworth in the North East, that’s a sign of a town that showed much promise in the 1800s, but faded from the limelight, only to rediscover fame again through its built heritage.

The top picture shows the Caledonian Hotel, which has a sign claiming it to be the oldest licensed hotel in Victoria, established 1844. The picture below is Seacombe House: private hotel, cottages and restaurant.

Seacombe House, Port Fairy

Warrnambool weekend

Posted on February 15, 2009 at 2:31pm | 0 comments

Flagstaff Hill

We’ve just returned from a family long weekend visit to Warrnambool. We left after work on Thursday and rented a holiday house for three nights.

It was a lovely three-bedroom house with a view of the ocean.

On Friday we did some shopping, had lunch, an afternoon nap (love those), went swimming and Juliet and I went out for dinner.

My cousin and his family arrived from Geelong on Saturday. Bernie and Marlita have twins, Thomas and Megan, just six months younger than Jim and Maggie. (more…)

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